Day four in Kyoto was chalked up as my last day on the west. The rest of the group was headed to Arishiyama, and since I’d already visited on Day Two, I was on my own!
We started our day off with another delicious breakfast at our hostel.
Seriously. Breakfast buffets quickly upgrade “okay” hostels to “good” hostels and “good” hostels to “I’m definitely staying here again next time” hostels.
I packed up my stuff and bid the group farewell before heading to my first stop: Nishiki, another covered shopping street. This one is famous for all of its kitchen supply shops, so I figured I’d better check it out despite being kind of tired of shopping.
I managed to pick up some fun little kitchen trinkets and a little sauce dish that I actually use to hold jewelry on my bedside table, but I also gawked a bit at some of the food options including barbecued sparrows and these famous, tiny candied octopus skewers:
On my way to another temple, I passed by several large, open pathways into a temple with zen gardens and could not resist a wander. I had happened upon Kenninji, a large Buddhist temple with sprawling grounds.
Now, when I say I only “happened upon” Kenninji, I mean that this temple was luckily right on my path from Nishiki to my next destination: Kongoji Temple.
I passed by this temple earlier in my Kyoto stay just as it was closing, and I saw an older woman hurriedly opening the gate and rushing people out before slamming the door again. This obviously piqued my interest, not least because I managed to peek some very colorful hanging balls within the temple gates. Because I didn’t catch the name of the temple and had found it originally by wandering I simply Googled “colorful balls Kyoto” and solved the mystery!
This temple was a thirty minute walk from my hostel, so I spent a lot of time trying to decide whether to return, but I’m so glad I did!
Worshipers here can write a wish on one of these colorful balls, called a “kukurizaru,” and then hang it at the temple in hopes that it will come true.
It’s honestly so silly to look back on this day and all the things I did considering I was trying to get back to Yokohama around dinner time…. (Spoiler: it didn’t happen.)
After prying myself from the happiness and color of Kongoji, I wandered north and wound up being pulled in by Chion-in Temple. The main temple buildings were under construction, but that didn’t stop me from climbing the massive front steps to get a lovely view from both sides of the giant temple gate.
On my first day in Kyoto, when I had a small busing fiasco, I ended up missing a spot that I wasn’t sure I would get back to: Heian Shrine. But, like I said, this day was already going way off track, so I decided to make the detour way up north to the massive torii gate that marks the shrine.
Here’s where I had an unexpected adventure. There was a 7-11 outside the shrine, so I popped in for a bite to eat. I was tempted by this sangria, but I settled for a lunch box and a pack of custard buns.
I think I’ve mentioned this already, but people don’t seem to ever eat out in the street. I think it’s generally frowned upon as rude, but I learned there’s a practicality behind it, too! As I was walking to the shrine and finishing up my first custard bun, debating whether to eat another, A HAWK swooped down from behind me, grabbed the package with both sets of talons, and flew away without ever missing a beat!
A HAWK, GUYS. A HAWK STOLE MY CUSTARD BUNS.
I was so flabbergasted. I couldn’t believe my eyes. I turned to a couple behind me to verify that I wasn’t going crazy, but all I could get out was, “He took….” Their awed expressions confirmed that I was indeed, sane, and the woman responded with, “Sugoi!” (I’d always thought this was a Korean word because I had most often heard it from a Korean friend, Cody, but my Japanese friend Chris informed me that was just Cody making fun of him… Hahaha. It means, “Wow!” Or, “Amazing!”)
But anyway. After a few rounds of deep breaths and a call back home to tell my mom how crazy my life is, I continued into the Heian Shrine.
So big! So vast! So vermilion! (That means orange.)
Next, I ventured over to Kinkakuji, or the Golden Pavilion. Katie and I tried to visit after closing the day before, but it was hustling and bustling today! I was melting in the heat by this point, so I sat down for a quick soft serve in black sesame flavor. I think this was my favorite to date. Soooo delicious.
And then on to see the famed pavilion! You wouldn’t know it from these people-free pictures, but this place was packed.
Luckily, I managed to smush up to the railing to get some lovely views in. I wish this was more of a park so I could just hang out at a park bench with this wonderful view all day, but that is not the case.
Once I exited Kinkakuji, I had completed my Kyoto activities. Not quite time to head back to Tokyo, though!
Katie had a friend who suggested the Takao to Hozukyo hike as a lovely way to spend a sunny day outdoors. I really hadn’t expected to do so much hiking on this trip, but once this was suggested, I couldn’t say no. I didn’t have nearly enough time to complete the full hike a this point, and I had a SUPER RUDE bus driver who blew past me waiting perfectly at the bus stop, so I lost another half hour of my day right there, but I still wanted to visit the area.
The hike started by the Kiyotaki-gawa River, and a neighboring building had the most impressive slipper collection I’ve ever seen.
The river was lined with restaurants and tea houses that are only open during the spring and fall, as these are the peak seasons for the color-changing leaves.
I followed the river down to see a roaring dam, and then back up to the other side to walk the start of the hike through the most magnificent cedar forest.
The trees were so, so tall and skinny, and they reached straight into the sky without a single curve or bend. Almost seemed otherworldly.
It was amazing how dark it was within the dense forest of cedars, despite how bright the sun was beyond the canopy. I honestly turned around not because I was running out of time, but because I was spooked by the dark! This was also clearly not a heavily-used path, as I walked through several long spider webs spanning the width of the trail.
When I made it back to the bank of the river, I crossed it again and wound my way up a long set of steps to reach Jingo-ji Temple.
No pictures were allowed inside the main hall, but I was welcomed in by an old man and encouraged to spend time inside. He brought me around the hall and pointed out the various Buddhist figures and shrines, and then he helped me give an offering. It was so peaceful and lovely, as I was the only one in the hall!
This temple is somewhat famous for its kawarakenage spot. Beyond a short path, I came to a magnificent view over the valley, and I bought three kawarake from a woman at the shop. These are small clay disks with an inscription that reads, “getting rid of evil,” and throwing them off the cliff rids yourself of bad karma.
Oh my, it felt so good, and this space was so magically peaceful and lovely.
I lingered and wandered some more through the temple grounds, reluctant to leave the shining “new green” of the maples and the tranquility of the space.
But alas, I really did need to get back to the East. So finally, I made my way back along the hiking route and up to the village of Takao, only to miss another bus.
I eventually made it back to Kyoto, where I grabbed some snacks before boarding the Shinkansen all the way back to Tokyo and Yokohama.
Thank you so much, Katie, Lea, and friends for letting me join on your Kyoto stay! It was so wonderful, and it’s always nice to travel with friends. (:
When I got back to Chris’s place in Yokohama around 10:30 (lol, definitely missed my dinner-time goal), he informed me he wouldn’t be home for another hour. So, I had a late-night snack courtesy of 7-11, and then I finally tried out this metal bathtub of his!
Apparently this is pretty standard for a Japanese home, and the coolest part is that you can set the exact temperature for the water, and the bathtub regulates that temperature for the entire duration of your soak! No more getting out because the water is too cold! If I had this at home, it is entirely possible that I would never leave the tub.
Chris came home eventually, and though we were both exhausted, we stayed up another several hours chatting and video-calling my sister back home. So silly.
And that’s a wrap on my last full day in Japan. One more story to go and I’ll have finally wrapped up this never-ending saga. Until then….
私はあなたに最高を祈ります/ best wishes,
-Lizzy-wa